Best Dining Neighborhoods in Athens

Athens dining is a revelation for anyone expecting only souvlaki and moussaka. The city has undergone a quiet culinary renaissance, with a new generation of chefs working with exceptional Greek ingredients -- the olive oil, tomatoes, cheese, and seafood here are genuinely some of the best in the Mediterranean.

The central market on Athinas Street -- Varvakeios Agora -- is the beating heart of Athens food culture. The fish hall and meat market on the ground floor are not for the squeamish, but the small tavernas in the basement serve the city's best tripe soup and grilled fish to market workers and adventurous visitors. Go early in the morning for the full experience.

For everyday eating, Psyrri just north of Monastiraki has tavernas that range from tourist traps to genuine finds. The key is heading into the back streets away from Monastiraki Square. Oinopoleion on Aischylou Street serves excellent small plates in a setting that has barely changed in decades. Mavro Provato nearby does modern Greek sharing plates with a wine list that showcases lesser-known Greek varieties.

Pangrati, the residential neighborhood below the Panathenaic Stadium, is where Athens eats at home. Viron bakery on Dimitsanas Street serves some of the city's best bread and pastries, and the restaurants around Proskopon Square and Plateia Varnava are consistently good and almost entirely local in clientele. The Nice N Easy restaurant group has a Pangrati location doing modern Mediterranean cooking with organic ingredients.

Exarchia, the anarchist quarter near the Polytechnic, has the city's most interesting and affordable dining. Student-friendly tavernas serve generous portions at low prices, and the area around Plateia Exarchia has an energy that makes even a simple meal memorable.

Koukaki at the foot of the Acropolis hill is where newer restaurants are opening with more creative approaches. The pedestrian streets around Drakou and Veikou are pleasant for evening dining year-round.

Seasonal tip: summer dining in Athens means rooftop terraces and tables spilling onto pavements. August sees many restaurants close as the city empties for the islands, so check ahead.