Best Dining Neighborhoods in Edinburgh

Edinburgh's dining scene has matured dramatically, moving well beyond the haggis-and-whisky caricature into something genuinely exciting. The city draws on Scotland's extraordinary larder -- North Sea fish, Highland game, Borders lamb, and some of the world's finest shellfish from the west coast -- and a growing community of chefs who know what to do with it.

Leith, the port district at the bottom of the Walk, has become Edinburgh's most rewarding food neighborhood. The Shore area along the Water of Leith has a concentration of excellent restaurants, from the Michelin-starred Kitchin (Tom Kitchin's flagship, showcasing Scottish seasonal produce) to more casual spots like Fishers on the Shore for seafood in a converted watchtower. Great Harbour on Commercial Street serves modern Scottish bistro food at reasonable prices.

The Old Town is more tourist-heavy, but rewards those who duck off the Royal Mile. Victoria Street's curve holds several good restaurants, and the Grassmarket, despite its tourist reputation, has genuine finds -- Ting Thai Caravan serves excellent Thai food in a stripped-back space, and the White Horse Oyster Bar occupies one of Edinburgh's oldest pub sites.

Stockbridge, the village-like neighborhood north of the New Town, has an excellent food culture. The Stockbridge Market on Sundays sells local produce, street food, and baked goods. Scran and Scallie on Comely Bank Road does elevated Scottish pub food, and the delis and bakeries along Raeburn Place make this area a pleasure for daily food shopping.

Bruntfield and Morningside in the south have a quieter dining scene with neighborhood restaurants that cater to locals. Montpeliers on Bruntsfield Place does good brunch, and the independent cafes along Morningside Road provide sustenance for walks on the Hermitage of Braid and Blackford Hill.

Seasonal notes: Scottish game season begins in August with grouse and runs through winter with venison and pheasant. Seafood is best in cooler months -- hand-dived scallops and langoustines from the west coast are at their peak from autumn through spring.